Southeast Asia's places and cultures

More Hubs

2007-09-07T19:17:00.001-07:00

Here are my hubs from the beginning of September:

I start in China with Shantou, a special economic zone near Hong Kong. Shanghai's hippest district is The French Concession District. Over in Taiwan, Taipei's suburbs offer just as much to do as the city center. Finally, I give props to the best unknown destinations in China.

I haven't written any hubs about Tokyo, which is probably an oversight on my part, considering that Tokyo is Asia's biggest city. I start in glitzy Ginza, before heading downtown. I end my first batch of many Tokyo related hubs with an overview of Ueno, Tokyo's Old Quarter.

Bangkok is one of my favorite cities, so I've got 3 recommendations for off-beat activities.

Then, I dispense with some travel advice about how to stay connected abroad.

I end with a regional synopsis of Southeast Asia: The best beaches and the best unknown destinations.

Also, Remember to check out my work on Hidden Travel Gems.

New Posts: Philippines

2007-08-21T15:28:00.000-07:00

Some of the lesser known spots in the Philippines are worth exploring: Davao, on the island of Mindanao and Luzon's Vigan.

Some spots are well known: Makati City and Cebu.

Mountains offer cooler climates especially in the tropics. Baguio in the Philippines and Bogor in Indonesia are two such places.

Finally, I cover Bacolod, Philippines. More soon.

Jakarta

2007-08-09T13:50:00.000-07:00

Indonesia's metropolis has 5 districts to visit. I cover three at hubpages: North, South, and Central.

China: Lhasa and Tianjin

What's New?

2007-08-09T13:41:00.000-07:00

China's Silk Road ends in Quanzhou, while Shenzhen is a new type of commercial center. While Zhuhai isn't quite as large as Shenzhen, it boasts a similar economy.

More HUBS

2007-08-01T10:19:00.000-07:00

Ha Long Bay is one of the most visited places in Vietnam. The rocky islands are postcard pictures waiting to happen. Laos has islands too. 4000 of them.

Kunming is part of China's economic might.

If it is adventure you seek, try going overland between Cambodia and Thailand.

Singapore is expensive, but cheaper if you know where to stay.

Finally, visiting Korea's DMZ is a chance to see one of the most tense and interesting places on the planet.

New Hubs

2007-07-26T12:55:00.000-07:00

More about Viet Nam on Hubpages:

Saigon's Ben Thanh Circle is a great place to spend a day. Getting around HCMC can be tough, unless you know what you're doing.

An interlude in Indonesia: West Jakarta. Then , more about Viet Nam.

Can Tho is a city in the Mekong Delta while Phu Quoc lies of the delta's coast. Finally, Mui Ne provides a nice resort experience near Ho Chi Minh City.

More VN

2007-07-19T14:54:00.000-07:00

Ho Chi Minh City is where all things urban can be found. Shopping and museums vie for visitors attention, as does the city's marvelous street food.

Viet Nam

2007-07-19T14:50:00.000-07:00

Here's some info on one of my favorite countries.
Hue is an ancient city on the central coast.

Hanoi is Viet Nam's northern metropolis. It has some good museums and a pretty diverse nightlife.

Lots More...

2007-07-17T17:57:00.000-07:00

Sorry, I haven't been keeping as up-to-date as I should be.
I need to tell you about Ho Chi Minh City: Where to Stay, 4 walking tours, and nightlife.

In addition: Ipoh, Malaysia, Johor Bahru, and the famous beach at Kuta

China: Qufu, and Shanghai's Suburbs.

I've got some more on Saigon in the works. in the mean time, check out a new blog I'm working on

Over 100!

2007-07-11T11:11:00.001-07:00

Yay! I have surpassed 100 posts on hubpages. I've finished up my Thailand related articles with The Kwai River, Udon (The Northeast Thai city, not the noodle),Isaan, and Nakhon Pathom. I also wrote about crossing from Thailand to Laos via the Mekong.

Next on the itinerary: Malaysia. Both Kota Kinabalu and Kuching are great cities on Malaysian Borneo. Putrajaya is an interesting, if sterile, planned city near KL.

I also mentioned two lesser known cities in China. Urumqi and Harbin.

Thailand

2007-07-08T20:11:00.000-07:00

Lots more to talk about. I've been focusing on Thailand at hubpages:
Thailand's islands: Ko Samet, Ko Chang, Phuket. And Beaches: Pattaya.

Bangkok: Historic District

Thailand's North: Surin, Chiang Rai, Vieng Vang (Laos)

2 more and Nepal

2007-07-04T06:37:00.000-07:00

Two more at hubpages: Semarang, Central Java's main city and Finding Nature in Hong Kong.
Also, check out some blogging I am doing about Nepal.

Happy 4th of July to all the yankees.

More on China

2007-07-01T20:17:00.000-07:00

Aside from a new article on Bandung, Indonesia, I've been focusing mainly on China at hubpages.
The latest places are:
Suzhou, on China's east coast;
the river-side city of Guilin;
Sichuan's capital, Chongqing
and the scenic waterfalls near Guizhou.

More coming up in July.

Exploring China

2007-06-28T14:18:00.000-07:00

It's easy to get off the beaten path in China. Hangzhou is mostly a domestic destination, but is the stuff of legends. Henan is the home of the Shaolin Temple, Ningxia is a desert province, and Xiamen is one of the most pleasant cities in all of China.
More on China Tomorrow.

Cambodia

2007-06-28T14:10:00.000-07:00

Here's a few articles about some lesser kown spots in Cambodia:
Kampong Cham is where the real Cambodia is on display. Battambang is a good stopping off point for overlanders. Adventurers will dig Banlung. Bokor National Park, seen in the movie City of Ghosts, is a haunting and rugged place to visit. Finally Kep is Cambodia's best kept secret. And don't forget where to stay in Cambodia.

2007-06-23T16:47:00.000-07:00

Beijing is one of the best places to eat in China. Roast duck should be on every traveler's menu.
Meanwhile, it is all happening in southern China. Guangzhou is at the center of China's modernization, but retains much of its charm. There is also one of the most happening nightlife scenes south of Shanghai. Taiwan's old port city, Tainan has tourist delights despite being off the beaten path. I also gave my love to Nanjing, one of my favorite places in China.
Myanmar has gone through some political termoil of late, but is still a good place to visit, as is the old colonial capital of Mandalay.
A reader at hubpages wanted to know about hotels in Cambodia, so I obliged.

Chilling out in Malaysia, temperature wise, is not always easy, except in the cool Cameron Highlands.

I haven't mentioned Nepal yet, but this trekking mecca is worth an article, as is its colorful city, Kathmandu.

Get it? Got it? Good!

New Hubpages Articles

2007-06-21T12:45:00.000-07:00

Colorful and historic Malacca is a good place to visit. While there's lots to see, the best part is experiencing local life. Chiang Mai is a somewhat quaint city in Northern Thailand with mountains and temples. Meanwhile, Dalat lies in Vietnam's mountains and offers similar treks. If you're into cities, Manila is an awesome one to check out. There's pretty much anything anyone could want. Taiwan is known for Taipei, but its second largest city, Kaohsiung, is a growing city with lots to do. Busan, like Kaohsiung, is a port city, but it is a truly international one, full of Korean culture and tasty seafood. Culture fans, don't forget some great festivals coming up in the next couple of months in Hong Kong.

China and Vietnam

2007-06-19T11:45:00.000-07:00

I've been writing about some of China's best places to visit. So far, I've written up Dalian, Shanghai, Xi'an, and Chengdu. I've also mentioned Nha Trang, one of my personal favorites (though not for its beaches. Check the link to find out more).

More on China is upcoming.

Backpacker Fodder

2007-06-14T17:40:00.000-07:00

Well, I will readily aqdmit that my travels began with me in the guise of a backpacker, traveling around on a few dollars a day, searching for one cool experience after another. I admit I wasn't really trying to learn anything or immerse myself in the culture of any given place. Still, I have a soft spot in my heart and fond memories of some of the places I visited.
The best of all, I think was Vientiane, which I consider to be the ultimate chill out spot in SE Asia. Sihanoukville comes in a close second. And of course, everyone has to experience Bangkok on their first trip to The S.E.A. And, I've heard that Mae Hong Son is a new hot spot for trekking in Thailand's hill country.
Indonesia was a little harder for me to love, but, aside from Jakarta, I enjoyed the tangible history and culture of its sound-alike city, Yogyakarta.
More coming every day: Check back soonest.

Korea and Taiwan

2007-06-12T13:38:00.000-07:00

I've written about these two places at hubpages. Though I've spent a limited amount of time in each place, I would definitely go back again if the opportunity presented itself.
I've written about Korea before, but I've added articles about eating in Korea, as well as an overview of Incheon, Seoul's giant suburb. Of course, one thing that makes Korea such a unique place to visit is its temples. And then, of course, there's Seoul's nightlife.

Taiwan is a great place to visit. Though it lacks the energy of Hong Kong, it has plenty to do at night and ample sights to see. The main attraction, for me anyway, is the scenery of Taiwan's mountains and coastline.

I don't know if I've mentioned my article, on hubpages, of course, about China's weather.

That's all for now. As summer vacation gets in to gear, I'm hoping to keep posting at hubpages several times a day, and maybe even start writing stuff especially for this blog again.

Two Cities

2007-06-09T09:09:00.000-07:00

Hong Kong: Festivals, More Festivals, and Transportation

Singapore: The Green City, Eating, Shopping, and Getting Around.

In my opinion, these are two of the best cities in Asia to visit, as you can tell from the number of articles I've devoted to them. Read up.

More Soonest. Stay tuned.

Travel tips

2007-06-04T16:46:00.000-07:00

I've published some more travel articels on Hubpages. Indochina's New year is celebrated with the Water Festival, but it's not always a good time to visit. Getting around in Kuala Lumpur can be a hassle unless you know what you're doing. Also, China's weather is as diverse as any in the world. And, artsy type will be crazy for Hanoi, Vietnam's art capital.
I'm on vacation now, so more's coming at hubpages soon. Also planning to bust out a new blog sometime this month.

A Lot to Share

2007-06-01T08:46:00.000-07:00

Lots of new articles I haven't mentioned here yet. Eating is a big part of every holiday (for me, at least), and such is the case in Phnom Penh. It's definitely one of the most interesting places to catch a bite. Korea and Macau are known for the DMZ and casinos, respectively. But there's a lot more. Finally, the beaches of Vung Tau offer a chill-out spot near Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. More coming soonest.

Vietnam food and temples

2007-05-29T20:18:00.000-07:00

Pho is Vietnam's most famous dish. Vietnam is extremely diverse in terms of religion.

China's secrets

2007-05-28T07:32:00.001-07:00

There are so many good palces in China to visit. A couple of lesser known destinations are Hainan Island and the Zhuang regions of southern China.

Blog neglection

2007-05-25T09:11:00.000-07:00

I am guilty of ignoring this blog. I've been publishing articles pretty often over at hubpages though. I've got four new articles that I haven't mentioned yet. Jakarta, one of the most underrated cities in all of Southeast Asia, is actually a great metropolis to visit. I give some recommendations on what to do there. Also, for those of you who enjoy filling your stomachs, Penang, Malaysia is the place to be.
Vietnam's Cham ruins are some of the best ancient sites in the world. While in Vietnam, it's easy to get off the beaten path and see some local color.

Check them out. I am posting more at hubpages and less here, but the content is the same, so check them out.

New articles about Thailand

2007-05-15T11:13:00.000-07:00

New posts on hubpages: Ayuthaya, Bangkok Neon, Getting around in Bangkok. Follow the links to read.

Chilling in HCMC

2007-05-13T14:20:00.000-07:00

One of the best ways to take a break from the Sai Gon Hustle is to head for one of the city's parks. Check out which ones are best.

Laos

2007-05-10T21:20:00.000-07:00

Luang Prabang is, in my opinion, one of the few places in Laos that can't be missed. Check it out at hubpages.

I know I haven't been posting here as much as I should. I've been spending time getting set up at hubpages, as well as getting set for a new blog. Stay tuned.

Coffee Culture

2007-05-09T08:55:00.000-07:00

I have posted a new article about Vietnamese coffee and the places it is enjoyed in. I'm planning on getting more in depth with Asia's other coffee cultures both here and at hubpages, so stay tuned.

Shopping in BKK

2007-05-08T07:12:00.000-07:00

There are soooo many markets in Bangkok that finding a venue for your bargain hunting will never be a problem. One Market, however, stands heads and shoulders above the rest in terms of size, f not quality. Chatuchak weekend market boasts over 13,000 stalls. Read more in my new article on hubpages.

Bad News for The Kingdom

2007-05-02T10:57:00.000-07:00

All the Asia watchers out there are aware of the recent problems in Thailand. Prime Minister Thaksin, a billionaire businessman turned politician, was removed by a military coup. If Thaksin's reign of corruption wasn't enough to turn many people off to The Kingdom, the leaders installed by the military after the coup have made matters worse. Heavy censorship of the media and restrictions on foreigners entering the country are no doubt part of the reason Thailand's economy appears bound for a slow-down.
Today, a story in the Bangkok post proves that the some in the international community are taking notice. The story cites a new list of the ten countries with the worst press freedom as compiled by the Committee to Protect Journalists. A short time ago, it would be laughable to suggest that Thailand, a country developing rapidly, both economically and socially, would be listen next to countries like Democratic Republic of Congo, Cuba, and Ethiopia when it came to mistreatment of journalists. But yet, there they are.

What does this mean for tourists? Not much. There are some rather arbitrary rules about visitors visas, but they have to do with people who plan to stay longer than 6 weeks. All the attractions that a tourist might want to see are still functioning, as is the country's transportation system.

Thailand's problems lie more in the economy. With all the shenanigans surrounding the coup and new government, Thailand is focusing inward, trying to exorcise its own demons. Countries like Vietnam, the only mainland country in mainland Southeast Asia which exceeds Thailand in population, seems poised to become a major player in the region. Plans for a new airport, WTO membership, and an exponentially increasing amount of foreign investment means Vietnam is already a viable alternative to Thailand for foreign investors looking for a place make a home for their money.

Will Thailand shake off the current funk it seems to be mired in? Or will there be nothing to be happy about in the Land of Smiles?

Time will tell.

Southeastern Pop

2007-04-30T13:09:00.000-07:00

The last thing I was looking for when I came to Southeast Asia was music.

That changed on a sweaty night in Bangkok when I and a thousand others witnessed pop-punk Canadians Simple Plan tear through a set. Although most of the audience was under twenty one, the energy was undeniable. It was an energy that is mainly lost back in the US, especially for bigger acts.

From then on, I’ve been kind of obsessed with live shows in Asia. I go whenever I can, usually catching well known acts as they pass through KL and Singapore.

While neither city is New York or L.A., a respectable amount of currently popular artists make one city or the other a stopping point during their Asian swings. Recent visits include Coldplay, Kanye West, and Muse. While some performances are not up to par in terms of energy (some felt let down by West’s April show in KL), most at least contain some interest. Often, the energy of the audience is quite infectious.

Local acts and regional stars are worth seeing as well. Watching controversial Indonesian dangdut star Inul Daratista move her hips ways that would make Shakira blush was quite an experience, especially since KL is a relatively conservative city.

And then there are rappers Too Phat. Almost laughably tame by US hip hop standards, the group has a rabid following around the region. While they’ve taken heat for mentioning taboos like sexuality (including a verse that mentions lesbian affects in a country where homosexuality is illegal), the duo’s shows are basically innocent hip hop. They celebrate the culture, however consumer driven it has become, in a way that has been lost to America’s hip hop scene for years.

Southeast Asia’s music scene has an energy that is quite infectious. It’s well worth the price of a ticket to experience it for yourself.

S-E-A of Rain

2007-04-30T12:55:00.000-07:00

Weather is certainly something that one has to deal with while visiting tropical regions. Things can get dramatic with typhoons and such, but usually, its simply rain which gets to you.
On occasion, rain isn’t even the correct word for such a weather event. There was the time in Bangkok when I was caught in something that felt more like standing in a shower, fully clothed. And not your shower at home, mind you, one of those hotel showers with superior water pressure. Aside from coming from above, one has to watch out below. Many spots just aren’t up to the task of draining torrential rains once they’ve hit the ground. More than once, I arrived at work with soaked shoes, simply unable to avoid the meters-wide puddles which blocked the walking routes along my commute. An evening out Indonesia was marred by a city-wide puddle which dampened my jeans up to mid thigh.
What can one do in the face of such torrents?

Stay indoors, or at least under cover.

But, because this is not often feasible, here are some other ideas to protect you.

Be like the locals, whenever possible, carry a rain slicker. In Vietnam, everyone carries multiple slickers (a.k.a. rain ponchos) on their motorbikes. they simply pull over and don these whenever it starts raining.
Umbrellas are helpful for shorter trips, say from a building to a taxi, but walking any distance in a strong rain renders them useless.
If you are walking or travelling by motorcycle or bicycle, aside from a rain poncho, consider plastic bags to place over your feet. You can fasten them with rubber bands.
Wear sandals. While this might not be possible for someone on their way to work or going out for the evening, it is the surest way to avoid a day of squishing around in damp socks.

I had a whole “rain suit” for a little while. The plastic pants which were supposedly to keep my pants dry did the exact opposite, trapping the humidity underneath and causing my legs to perspire like I was in a sauna.

The most important advice: rain and wetness are unavoidable during the long wet season. If all else fails, you can enjoy jumping in the puddles.

Funky Fruits

2007-04-27T08:05:00.000-07:00

One thing that many of the people who visit Southeast Asia aren't familiar with is the fruit native to the region. I have come to enjoy some of these "strange" fruits quite a bit. There is the sweet and soft dragonfruit, the sour pomegranate and the earthy, rubbery jackfruit. These fruits are sold on the street everywhere from Bangkok to Sai Gon to Kuala Lumpur.
But, perhaps my favorite family of tropical fruit is the small, round trio of sweetness known to many as the rambutan, the litchi, and the longan. (For those of you down with tree species thing, all three are part of the family Sapindaceae). You may also be familiar with this group if you spent any time in Central America.
Rambutan (pictured above) has a spiky-looking exterior. The feel of this shell is something like holding one of those spiky, squishy rubber balls that kids and dogs sometimes play with. After making and incision in the shell with a knife or fingernail, it can be peeled away easily, revealing a fleshy, white orb. Some people pop the whole thing in their mouth, sucking the flesh from the large pit. Others bite more daintily, taking several passes to gnaw the edible part away from the pit. I usually followed the former method, although the hardness of the pit can be a danger to your teeth, and the pit is just big enough to cause some discomfort to your airways if swallowed. Still, the wet, almost candy-like taste makes any risks worth it.
Longan and litchi are quite a bit juicier than their larger cousin. These bit sized fruits, the size of a grape when unpeeled, lack rambutan's spiky exterior. Instead they have a flat, leathery skin with litchi's being a little rougher. When punctured, a bit of juice escapes from inside. For this reason, some people use a tooth to begin the peeling process. Whether or not you do so is up to your definition of what is sanitary. Inside, the fruit, a similar texture to rambutan, is surrounded by its juices. It's necessary to suck it into your mouth at one time. It is a little easier to relieve the flesh from its pit than rambutan, although a little care needs to be taken because of the pits hardness. Even if this method is performed with great care, your fingers will probably become sticky from the excess juices.
I find longan to contain the most juice, while litchi has and almost overwhelming sweetness. Both are perfect, especially on a hot, humid day in the tropics.

Eating Your Way Through Sai Gon Nights

2007-04-18T07:55:00.000-07:00

There best thing about Ho Chi Minh City is the sheer number of hidden restaurants. Some of my fondest memories of the city involve wandering down inconspicuous alleyways and happening upon my next favorite food stall. Opening for a few hours each evening, these places serve only a handful of dishes. Sometimes, these is only one dish on offer. My favorite places were usually furnished with plastic lawn chairs and cheap folding tables. The decor isn't the point, though. It is all about the food. Imagine a cook who has had the opportunity to perfect one dish over the course of his or her career. The results of this kind of practice can be quite amazing.

Take banh xeo, for example. This specialty dish is sometimes referred to as a Vietnamese pancake. The "pancake" is made of a batter containing coconut milk, rice flower, and curry spices. The batter is used to make a crispy "pancake". The sweet coconut milk creates a nice contrast with the spices, giving the dish a heartiness. The pancake is then stuffed with pork, shrimp, mung bean sprouts, and onions. To eat, diners are expected to roll the whole thing in a leaf of lettuce and dip it in sweetened fish sauce. The lettuce adds a fresh and crisp element to the dish and also serves to keep the oil from the pancake off your fingers. I've had several variations to the traditional stuffing, including a vegetarian version with bean sprouts and thin strips of deep fried tofu.

Judging by how packed these back alley cafes were every night, these dishes were quite popular with everyone in Sai Gon.

For something soupy, there are numerous places serving a soup/stew which is cooked on a small gas grill right on your table top. Called lau in Vietnamese, the ingredients for the soup are often placed on your table raw. You are expected to put them into the boiling broth as you eat. I usually opt for the seafood version (Lau Bien). The soup is then filled with shrimp, fish, squid, and shellfish. Because freshness is highly prized in Vietnamese cuisine, I've seen, on several occasion, a waiter scooping a net full of live shrimp and sardines from a bucket and dropping them directly into the boiling broth on the table. Though the momentary jumping of the "freshest" of seafood gave a bit of a tug at my conscience, the freshness definitely was noticeable in the taste.

Despite their unlikely locations, word of mouth advertising seems to be all that's needed to get people to try that which is on offer at these specialty cafes. A spot with quality grub will earn an untold number of recommendations from satisfied diners. What is sometimes little more than a section of alley can turn into one of the most happening places in the city.

There are many other types of back alley specialty fare. I will attempt to further scratch the surface in later posts.

Bye Bye Convenience

2007-04-16T12:43:00.000-07:00

Those who enjoy the quick twenty minute, 60,000Dong taxi ride from Tan Son Nhat Airport into Central Ho Chi Minh City as in for a little jolt. A new airport, Long Thanh airport in Dong Nai province is in the planning stages and is projected to by operational in 2011. This means that a 40 km ride will stand between you and Ho chi Minh City. And that doesn't take into account the traffic.
The government plans to deal with the traffic with a ten lane highway connecting the airport to Ho City as well as one connecting to port town Vung Tau. Will that help? Eventually, perhaps.
OK. So I'm being rather selfish. Tan son Nhat is outdated and because it is in an urban area, expansion is difficult, if not downright impossible. Vietnamese authorities have grandiose dreams of Long Thanh becoming a hub for Southeast Asia. Given the favorable projections for Vietnam's tourism industry and also for their economy overall, this is probably more realistic than the government's usual pipe dreams.

I just hope that the Long Thanh Airport and the new age it heralds for Vietnam's development do not change this most unique of countries too much.

En Route: The Best Airports

2007-04-16T11:59:00.000-07:00

The Best: Incheon (see photo). The main terminal is massive. Unlike Bangkok's new Suvarnabhumi Airport, there are restrooms and seating areas within walking distance of the shops. As a Duty Free fan, I found Incheon to be a nearly orgasmic experience. The shops are quite plush, making even the lowliest traveller feel like a member of the jet set.
Also, the transit smoking room is equipped with cushioned chairs. Although this didn't help the stale smell of second hand smoke, it beat the plastic chairs that have marred my rear end in other areas.
The Best Scenery: Narita. On the final approach to Narita, the scenery in quite idyllic. On my last trip, it eased my sense of exhaustion to watch the green hills and coniferous trees float past. It reminded me of an old Japanese painting.
Worst Bar: LAX, where I and my travelling companion, the only customers at the time, were rushed through our beers so that the bartender could take a smoke break.
And the Best: O'Hare's bar at the international terminal. It's been several years, but the delightful bartender was quick with a joke and knew all the flight information by heart. She even kept us up to date on the status of our flight, which was delayed.
Most Over-Hyped: Suvarnabhumi. You have to walk past so many shops in order to get anywhere. If nature calls, chances are you wont be able to locate a restroom before it's too late.
Worst place to go through customs on returning to the states: Anywhere, but most of all, O'Hare. From the over zealous custom officers interrogating everyone about how much currency they are holding to the cowboys who on each trip, accost me for some idiotic reason or another. It never happens anywhere else.

Finally, Most interesting. Tan Son Nhat, Ho Chi Minh City. Probably because of the history. As you taxi towards the terminal, you'll see rows of concrete hangers siting vacant on the overgrown airfield. Makes you wonder about the places history as a base for both French and American Air Forces.

Best of the Air

2007-04-14T18:04:00.000-07:00

Cathay Pacific is definitely the sexiest airline serving East Asia. It is consistently ranked among the best by Skytrax, and has won the “Gold Medal” two of the past four years.

Does that mean you should consider using Cathay for your next trip? Depends on what you need (or want).

For me, it’s all about schedule. I simply choose the carrier with the most direct flight and the most reasonable price. Once, that happened to be Cathay Pacific. I have to agree, it was one of the best airlines I’ve flown. Keep in mind, though, that I come from the Midwestern USA, home of some of the worst major carriers in the world. I’m used to domestic flights where a disgruntled stewardess tosses a bag of salty peanuts to you and asks you if you’d like to purchase a beverage for $2. Virtually any airline that flies internationally can top that experience.

But really, my Cathay Pacific experience was one of the best I’ve ever had aloft. No, that statement has nothing to do with the proverbial “mile high club.” First of all, the seats were designed so that even if the person in front of you leaned back, their seat did not encroach on your leg space. Furthermore, even in economy class, each person had their own personal video screen. I found little old lowly me, used to sleepless, leg cramping trans pacific flights, suddenly able to choose exactly what I wanted to watch.

Great! Now, if only they could do something about the food, which was standard plane cuisine (slightly below the quality of a bad TV dinner).

The above mentioned amenities did alleviate some of the pain of the long flight. However, ocean hopping is still ocean hopping. If you aren’t itching to get off a plane after twelve to fourteen hours, something is wrong with you.

Still, Cathay’s economy class gave me the same feeling as those (rare) occasions when I am able to use my frequent flier miles to trade up for a business class seat.

What Did You Just Say?

2007-04-14T17:47:00.000-07:00

Many people, when visiting a region, like to have a few words of the local language in hand in order to streamline getting around or to exchange pleasantries with the locals.

If one plans to spend any length of time in a country, learning a language becomes more important, if only to streamline your shopping trips. For the most part, people are accepting of any attempt to speak their language, although you may get a few blank stares as you struggle along the lower part of the learning curve. The good news is that many of Southeast Asia’s languages are related to each other. Thai and Lao are mutually intelligible to native speakers, and Malay and Indonesian share over 80% of their vocabularies.

Here’s a brief overview of what I know about some of Southeast Asia’s languages:

Khmer is the only mainland Southeast Asian language that is not tonal. However, it is written in a syllabic script, meaning that learning it in any depth would require the mastery of a new way of writing. Khmer has no cases or genders as in Spanish or French. Rather, separate words are placed in front of a noun to show its number, or verb to show its tense.

Vietnamese has a similar structure to Khmer, but is spoken with tones. That means that a word that is spelled similarly can be spoken in a different pitch to change its meaning. This is quite a difficulty for Western learners at first, but becomes much easier with practice. Another important element of Vietnamese is that it is written in a Roman script, meaning that English speakers do not have to learn a new alphabet in order to master the language. Also, all words have only one syllable, meaning that there is no long words to memorize.

Thai is another tonal language, although many people tell me that speakers who have not yet mastered the tones are understood quite well by native Thai speakers through context. However, Thai, like Khmer, is written in a syllabic script (which is quite complex to learn, especially because there are no spaces between words), although there are several methods of Romanizing the language. No method is universally recognized, so you may see several different spelling for the same word.

Indonesian and Malaysian are quite easy to learn. There are no tones and the languages are written using the roman alphabet. Words are given more specific meanings (tense, number, etc...) by adding prefixes onto the stem word. This language has a learning curve which steepens as times goes on. For tourists looking to learn some basic phrases, however, Malay and Indonesian are probably the easiest the put to use.

The different dialects of Chinese are similar in structure to Vietnamese. The advantage of learning these languages (namely Mandarin or Cantonese) is that there exists several well established and widely accepted ways of translating the languages phonetically into Roman script.

Raffles Hotel

2007-04-13T15:17:00.000-07:00

Here's a shot of Raffles Hotel in Singapore. Definitely one of the most well known Hotels in all of East Asia. Rooms cost more than is feasible for most visitors, but I'm certain it's worth it if you can afford it.

Raffles

2007-04-13T15:06:00.000-07:00

These days, there are few stories as wild and interesting as the narrative of the life of Thomas Stamford Raffles.

Raffles, the British colonial official who founded Singapore, started his career at age 14, when he became a clerk at the East India Trading Company. He was forced into work at such an early age because of the untimely death of his father, who was the Captain of a slave trading ship.

Raffles was self taught. He learned the Malay language and read extensively on the cultures of insular Southeast Asia. He combined this with his wit and natural intelligence to gain a posting in Penang.

He quickly rose through the ranks of the colonial administration.

Most of Britain’s conquests in the region (and worldwide) were fraught with bloodshed. Raffles’ career, therefore, seemed out of place in this bloody part of history. He was, without a doubt, a colonizer, but, by abolishing slavery and allowing the local peoples to retain their language and many of their customs, he showed a light hand with his leadership.

He remained a student of Malay language and culture throughout his life.
Raffles is famous for being the founder of the city-state of Singapore. His pen was the one that wrote Singapore’s first constitution. As with his work elsewhere, he allowed many of the native people to retain their customs and language while imposing a moral code upon the area. Slavery and gambling were outlawed. However, people were allowed to adhere to their traditional religious beliefs.

Surprisingly, Raffles died penniless, at age 45, after returning to England. He had incurred debts while establishing colonies, and his anti-slavery stance and hands off governing style did not win him any friends among England’s elite. His estate was sold to pay off his debts.

Singapore is still stamped by the name of Raffles. Stamford street is one of the city’s main boulevards. Raffles Hotel has been made world famous by its luxury and celebrated visitors. With all the streets, buildings and universities bearing his name, Singapore, now an independant state, still pays tribute to its founder.

Water World

2007-04-13T14:47:00.000-07:00

Thai New Year (Songkran) is a time of celebration. Many Thais return home during Mid-April, to visit family and friends. However, there is a rather unfortunate aspect of these festivities. The tradition which sounds harmless, but a bit mischievous, involves flinging water at one another. Sounds fun until you get doused by the hard flung contents of a bucket whilst driving a motorcycle. I’ve known of more than one person who ended up with a case of road rash from falling after being surprised by an unexpected splash to the face. The problem is that everyone is fair game during Songkram. If you’re outdoor, you’re going to get wet, probably when you least expect it.

The water throwing has gotten so aggressive that Thai officials have tried to impose restrictions on the tradition in order to give those who do not appreciate it time to go about their business in a state of dryness.

According the the Bangkok Recorder, nearly 100 people have died thus far throughout the country due to road accidents. Over 1000 have been injured.

These casualties are often due to overzealous water throwing, although the above normal levels of traffic and the fact that many mark Songkran by consuming large amounts of alcohol are surely to blame as well.

I have met several sets of travellers who thought that their vacations were “ruined” because they chose to come to Thailand during this time. The truth is, were I to spend hard earned money on a vacation, I would feel the same as them. The water throwing is too aggressive and the fact that you have to feel apprehensive about going ANYWHERE because of the high number of accidents is a big turn off.

If you want to experience a gentler version of this festival, both Cambodia and Laos have beautiful ways of celebrating. This includes water throwing, though without the same full on approach as Thailand.

So you don’t think I am too negative, if you have Thai friends and have the chance to spend time with their family during Songkran, you may find an enjoyable time full of food, conversations and family traditions.

Vietnam's Underdog Air Carrier

2007-04-13T14:40:00.000-07:00

With the re-emergence of Ho Chi Minh City based Pacific Airlines, the Vietnam Airlines’ monopoly on airspace has ended. Most people had simply just accepted the mediocrity (and mystery meat sandwiches served as cabin fare) of VA because there were no other options . Pacific airlines has been in the picture from time to time, offering a few flights to limited domestic destinations. The difference this time is that indebted Pacific will have the backing of a Singapore based investment firm. This means that the airline has the funding to shrug of its debt and move forward on plans to widen their offerings. Right now, the Pacific flies between Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, and Hanoi domestically, and Taiwan internationally. They plan to market themselves as a low-cost airline for regional travel. The proposal calls for adding routes to Southeast Asia’s major cities (including Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, and Bangkok).

While Vietnam Airlines will probably remain the most convenient choice for many fliers travelling domestically, I hope that a sense of competition with their re-strengthened
rival will lead to an increase in quality of service.

A Taste of Place

2007-04-09T15:53:00.000-07:00

Sometimes, they will ask: “Is that’s what it’s really like?”
Well, cameras often are part of a lie. It’s easy to make any place look cool, like CSI or a Michael Bay flick.
But sometimes I am happy to say, “Yes. I was there. That’s exactly how it looked. That's exactly how it sounded.”
So here are some films that I think show a realistic view of Southeast Asia (as I know it). Most are quality works of cinema as well.

Cyclo: This 1995 Vietnamese film has some great camerawork which captures Sai Gon. Though the country has opened up for greater development since the film wrapped, a lot of the neighborhoods haven’t changed much. The constant hum of motorcycles during the street scenes bears a close resemblance to the real song of the city’s outdoor areas. The interior scenes capture the atmosphere of the airy but crowded living spaces in the city.

City of Ghosts: Despite the fact that many critics branded this film as too preachy, it has some respectable cinematography of dusty Phnom Penh. The aged temples, monsoon stained villas, and narrow, foreboding alleyways are signatures of the city. Also, the canvas roofed markets and street stalls captured in the street scenes are almost too realistic.

Of subtler elements, the film has several scenes lit by florescent, a consistent form of lighting found in Southeast Asia. The way the lights flickered and played off the plaster walls made me think I was sitting there in Matt Dillon's guesthouse room.

Cavite: An indie film where many of the scenes take place in Manila's streets, as well as the narrow lanes of the city’s squalid shantytowns. Though I have never been in the extremely poor areas, I can say that I could almost smell the jeepney clogged streets and busy, narrow aisled markets when I was watching this film.

Perhaps the first film I saw which was set in Southeast Asia was The Year of Living Dangerously. An early scene in this film was set in a narrow neighborhood in Jakarta. It captured all that attracted me to Asia: It’s exoticism, mystery, energy, and the seeming proximity to both life and death.

Finally, a fun one. As far as the back alleys and endless apartment buildings of Bangkok, I recommend a trio of films by the Pang brothers from their pre-horror days. The best of these is One Take Only, a film which follows a drug dealer and prostitute as they try to make it out of their gritty lives and onto something better. The apartment tenement where they live is typical Bangkok, managing to be both clean and dirty at once. In Bangkok Dangerous, we see some of the city’s back alley’s a go-go bars from the point of view of a deaf hitman. This film has more grit than the reality. Finally, The Tesseract, which follows an expat psychologist and a drug runner as they wander, and sometimes sprint, though Bangkok’s back alleys and markets. These films are extremely fun as well as giving you a unique viewpoint of Bangkok.

The Sleeping Land

2007-04-03T15:19:00.000-07:00

Laos is not one of the “glamour” destinations of Southeast Asia. And there’s probably a reason for that. After having been to Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City, Vientiene, Laos' capital, is a place that seems to be in a perpetually sleepwalking. There were times when the sound of, well, nothing seemed to be causing some sort of pressure on my eardrums. However, any distress was short lived because Laos is one of the most beautiful places in Asia.
By some definitions, all of the country can be categorized as a “backwater”. Well, it depends on what you mean, but by most definitions, this is a valid brand. “Quaint” might be a more polite adjective. “Oh how quaint, you eat with your hands in Laos.”

I jest. Some of the most beautifully constucted temples can be found throughout the country, especially in Luang Prabang, the country’s second largest city. Also, for those of us fans of old school buildings, there are some amazing wooden houses scattered about.

Overall, the thing that stands out most is the pace. At first, many people are put off by it, but eventually, the rhythm of life in Laos grows on anyone patient enough to give it some time. There is a sense of peace that comes from watching everything float by at a leisurely pace.

If you are visiting Southeast Asia, don’t start in Laos. But don’t miss it either. If you do, you’ll miss the earthiness which has been sopped up by all things modern in most other parts of the region.

The Secret

2007-03-19T13:51:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while people living in a foreign country get wind of expat secrets, legends first whispered in the back of sticky-floored bars. Usually they are nothing worth getting overjoyed, or even curious, about. Perhaps someone found a hip new bar or a lead on a new teaching job. Most of the time, the rumor's source is trying to act important, perhaps to earn a free beer or a little respect from peers.

I became privy to one such "secret" that seemed to be guarded more than most. This secret has to do with a certain place. (The name of this place is written in its native script at the top of this post. As you'll soon see, it was not a very secret "secret".

The telling began thus: One rather enigmatic teacher let slip that he was looking into a new school “somewhere else”.
“Where?”
“I can’t tell you. I’ll let you know if it works out.”
Further pressing simply led him to continue his silence and increase the magnitude of his self-important grin.

One night, lubricated by several tiger beers, he let me in on it, using a low voice ever though the music was too loud.
“Cambodia.”
“Cambodia?”
“Yeah.”
I thought of Cambodia as a backwater. Even though the border was nearby or current location in Ho Chi Minh City (Sai Gon to anyone who's there, save a hand full of overly P.C. white folks), I never thought of a visit. I had always split to Bangkok for visa runs, preferring a brief experience in a modern city (I'll admit to trysts with Starbucks, Burger King, and Pizza Hut, but that's another story) before heading back to Vietnam, which was, relative to BKK, itself a backwater.

The holder of the Cambodia secret went on to produce a flowering monologue about the reasonable salary for English teachers combined with the unspoiled, un-globalized vibe and the wild west feel of Phnom Penh. He went on to say that expats who had lucked into Cambodia didn’t want to spoil said vibe. Therefore, they were sworn to secrecy, compelled not to sing the praises of Kampuchea lest it cause an influx of tourists and job seekers who might ruin Southeast Asia's final frontier.

However, the visions of Cambodia’s violent recent history, and rumors of frequent gun play and anarchy was enough to make most expats wary of relocating. It is only recently that tourism has begun to pick up. It turns out that, though Cambodia is comparatively more dangerous than Thailand and Vietnam, it is not unreasonably so. As with most things, the media has grossly overplayed the violence.

Having since visited the country, I can say that there is a certain sense of idyll that is gained from walking through this land. However, I’ll say no more. I’ve sworn an oath not to. You can find out more about Cambodia from a quality blog run by Phnom Penh expats or from a foodie's perspective.
More of an academic. That's Ok too.

Fish Feeding in BKK

2007-03-19T13:50:00.000-07:00

Bangkok means many things to many people. Ask foreign tourists on Khao San Road and they’ll list temples, culture, seeing the world as their motivations for travel. Take an evening stroll down Sukumvit and you will pass Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza, and see that the sex trade remains booming. For anyone who has been around the region, Bangkok remains one of the most crowded, but modern and energetic cities in Southeast Asia.

A tax accountant from Vietnam once listed his schedule for every visa run to Bangkok. It involved Starbucks, a couple of movies, hours of shopping, and meals at Seven Eleven, Pizza Hut, and McDonold’s. Yes, Bangkok has many of the amenities of say, Los Angeles. It may even have a leg up on LA, especially for those of you who are worried about running into pretentious Hollywood movie stars.

Myself? I do indulge in a Big Mac and take advantage of a nicer hotel when I’m in town. However, there is one thing I enjoy perhaps more than anything else. (Here, the reader pauses, gearing up for a juicy confession). There one thing I can’t be in Bangkok without doing. (Here it comes). And that thing is feeding the fish at Lumpini Park (reader sighs at anti-climax). I'm being quite serious.

Don’t get me wrong. I’m at home in big cities. I was born in, and have chosen to live in, urban areas my whole life. Bangkok borders on being overwhelming with its urban-ness. Still, I love the street life, the sidewalks, the little anomalies: a dark alley, a building that seems out of place, a guy sitting in the middle of the sidewalk selling papayas out of a metal wash basin full of ice, that make BKK's neighborhoods intriguing. I love all that.

But there’s something about Lumpini Park. Maybe it’s the contrast between the natural and the man-made. Sit on the shores of the lake and you can see the city skyline rising in every direction. An island of quiet in the middle of the hum of urban chaos. The city is all around. The photograph above is of the skyline as seen while sitting on the banks of the lake. There is an unmistakable feel of insulation between the lake shore and the buildings. Nature, no matter how much of a city lover one might be, is often comforting.

One can see Tai Chi practitioners, joggers, various athletes, lovers, and fortune tellers. It’s all there, but there in a "the volume is turned down" kind of way. An almost exact reciprocal of the city outside the fences.

I don’t seek anyone out, except my main man, the guy selling bread crusts to suckers like me who come to feed the fish. I think he remembers me each time I come. He even Wai-ed last time. Maybe he thinks I’m nuts, a grown man doing what is usually reserved for kids. I don't care. I guess it is kind of child like to get excited by tossing bread on the top of the water, then getting excited by the underwater turbulence as the fish jockey for the biggest morsels. I've never seen one of the fish close up. The could have three eyes for all I know. Given the pollution in Bangkok, that is actually a distinct possibility.

So. Whether you come for the shopping, food, temples, sex, culture, or for business, give the fish feeding a try. If nothing else, it will put you in a position to see one of the world's most fantastic skylines while sitting in idyllic surroundings. More pictures here.

One Soup, Two Soup, Three....

2007-03-17T09:02:00.000-07:00

If you've read anything about Vietnamese cuisine, you've certainly heard of Pho and Spring Rolls. These two foods are romanticised in every guidebook and travel web site. You might begin to think that Vietnamese survive on these two dishes alone. Not so. Yes, pho shops are everywhere, but so are shops serving the famous dish's brothy kin. All of the soups listed below are available in any large city in Vietnam, and also in any small town in its region of origin.

The speciality from Vietnam's Mekong Delta is Hu Tieu. It is similar to Chinese egg noodle soup, but made with rice noodles. It contains poached pork and sports a saltier flavor than Pho. Other meats are added depending on where you eat it. The places I frequented in Sai Gon added shrimp and balls of fish meat. One particularly adventurous soup kitchen cook threw in whatever part of a crab was lying around, usually the claw, but a couple times I found other parts looking up from my bowl.

Pho, by the way, is eaten all over Vietnam, but originated in Ha Noi. It is always served with bean sprouts, basil, lemon, and chili on the side. One is expected to season their soup to taste. I tend to do so heavily, especially with Pho, because I usually find it to be rather bland. Adding Hoisin sauce, fish sauce (Nuoc Mam), pepper, and salt can help. The other soups are also eaten in a similar way, with the condiments varying slightly. Many busy shops will simply have a plate of fresh herbs and mung bean sprouts at each table, with a waitress circulating to replenish the plates when they fall empty.

Bun Bo Hue is a meaty dish with thicker rice noodles (bun) and beef hock simmered for hours in the broth. I have always found this dish to be extremely hearty. The dark colored broth will stain your mouth, and any other part of your body it comes in contact with. However, the thin slices of beef have a wonderful taste. Their texture is similar to roast beef, with the flavors of the broth infused into them. Bun Bo Hue bears the name of its place of origin. Hue, the ancient Vietnamese capital, is located on the central coast. The soup is served with thinly sliced salad, cabbage, or any other vegetables of a similar consistency and bitterness to cabbage. (I believe that the blossoms of a banana tree are the most authentic of these ingredients).

Mi is the Vietnamese version of Chinese egg noodles. This soup is available countrywide and could mean anything from instant noodles ala Ramen to deliciously thin egg noodles. Several varieties of meat could be added, such as Beef (Mi Bo), Chicken (Mi Ga), fish or shrimp (Mi Ca or Mi Tom), and so on. Many visitors have told me that they are most comfortable with this type of soup because of a familiarity with egg noodles and the general lack of "funky" ingredients.
For those who prefer the "funky", there are versions out there especially for you. In particular, one soup kitchen which pops up on a sidewalk near Sai Gon's downtown late in the evening serves an oily broth with egg noodles and coagulated pig's blood. The blood has a consistency of steamed tofu. I believe that a similar version utilizes chicken blood. Both varieties of "blood cubes" turn out to be quite tasteless. If one can stomach dishes like tofu, the texture is not at all unpleasant.

As a general rule, you can judge a soup kitchen's quality by its popularity. If it is full of local people, the food is probably very good and everything is suitably sanitary. Some of the smaller kitchens only have 2 or 3 tables, some only one. I have found some of the best soups at places like this. It may be the case that people stop by to get the soup to go, or that someone is delivering fresh bowls on foot to people around the neighborhood. You'll have to judge the sanitary conditions by looking at the cooking area, which is generally an large aluminum box with a gas range or charcoal underneath the counter. In more than three years in Vietnam, and five years in the region, I have never gotten sick from eating food from these types of stalls.

This is only a cursory look at the soup based dishes available in Vietnam. I will try to touch on some of the more unique dishes in subsequent posts.

Seeking 1950s Vietnam

2007-03-16T12:25:00.000-07:00

Today, the Sai Gon of the 1950s is unnoticeable unless one looks closely. Many of the older buildings in the area known as District 3, near the city's center, show the remnants of French colonial architecture with their walled gardens and colorfully shuttered windows. However, such building are few and far between.
The Continental Hotel, where Graham Greene supposedly penned The Quiet American, still sits in the midst of downtown. However, the downtown had to be digitally altered to appear realistic for Philip Noyce's film based on Greene's book. These days, as one nears the Continental, any daydreams of reliving the past are drowned out by the over-loud techno music coming from nearby clothing shops. The newer Caravelle Hotel towers over the area that used to be named Duong Tu Do, Freedom Street. This street was "Main Street" during both French and American occupations.
All in all, the effects of Vietnam's government embracing globalization ( and its monetary benefits) are seen in the innumerable construction projects around Vietnam.

But the people, the sounds, and the atmosphere characterised by Greene and others in the 50s and 60s are still evident, if one looks closely.

Vietnam is the setting for this post because it is the setting for The Quiet American, but more than likely, any so-called "developing" country has a similar dynamic between the ageless and the modern. I know this to be the case on a much larger scale in China and India.

The aura of history is evident in several places.
Walking though any of Sai Gon's markets, one gets the feeling that they are witness to a timeless institution. People are hawking their wares in an economy based on cash and specialization. Market life has a rhythm which is foreign to me. Of course, there are the foreign smells: the raw meat, the over-ripe fruit, and the odor of live chickens. But there is also the intuative nature of the business. That is to say, there is the atmosphere of everyone going about their business, doing what needs to be done in order to live another day. This kind of day-by-day outlook is prevalent in Vietnamese culture. There is a earthiness to this style of life.

In the Quiet American, Greene's antihero, Thomas Fowler mentions sending out for ice. This is a highly visible industry in today's Vietnam. Large blocks of ice are rush delivered on motorbike. The drivers race against the tropical climate to get their ware delivered before it disappears. Selling ice in a culture of fresh food and little refrigeration is evidence of the way an industry rises from a need. That sense of the practical intertwined with the cultural is at the heart of the attraction of Vietnamese street life.

There are still some aged French style villas in District 3, an area of the city which also sports streets named after Frenchman (as in Pasteur Street). Indeed, a lot of the newer architecture seems to have been constructed using French blueprints. The way to tell the originals is by the amount of water stains the tropical climate has endowed upon the building's walls.

These are just a few examples of how history is evident in today's Vietnam. Surely there are many more. Here is some further reading if you are interesting in Vietnam's buildings.